What is south Asian hair actually like and how can learning this help you care for your hair?

To know how best to care for your hair, it is important to first learn about your hair on a follicular level. Unfortunately, in the UK, there is little information about south Asian hair at this level. Most hair care guides and indeed products focus on Caucasian hair which tends to be thin and fine and only now is there a growing body of work on Black hair, it’s multitudes of curl varieties and how to care for and style each type. 

This distinction is important because contrary to popular belief Asian hair texture is not simply a mix of Caucasian and Black hair texture and nor is it something that falls in between the two. It is entirely unique and even has its own sub-varieties. Amongst Indians for example, South Indians typically tend to have thick, coarse and curly hair whilst North Indians generally have thick, fine and straight hair. 

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The illustrious ‘Hair Doctor’ Philip Kingsley understands the importance of the distinction between different ethnic hair types and how this influences how best to take care of it. In his seminal book, The Hair Bible, he discusses the key features of Asian hair saying, “an individual Asian hair has an almost perfect round shape (cross-section) with a straight or slightly wavy hair shaft.”

“It is usually dark brown or black, has the thickest diameter of any of the ethnic groups and, moreover, is one of the strongest types of hair, with a capacity to grow to a greater length than that of other races - often over 40 inches,” he writes. “The Asian hair growth cycle is the longest of any group, as much as nine years, almost twice the lifespan of other hair groups. This means that the daily shredding rate is less (or should be) than that of other races.” It is this thickness and strength that gives Asian hair such good body. Greying also usually starts later in Asians.

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Yet, as anyone with hair knows, it is not all perfect hair tosses and glossy lengths for days, no matter what your ethnicity; and south Asian hair has a tendency towards dryness and looking frizzy. Dr Kingsley also notes that long hair (historically another south Asian trademark) is more vulnerable to moisture loss because it “tends to be brushed more frequently, and while this removes dust and debris, it can also weaken the hair by removing some of the hair cuticle.”

So the key to taking good care of it then, seems to be to minimise loss of moisture, which is especially important when considering the cold British weather. The first place to begin when it comes to this is of-course shampoo and conditioner. Dr Kingsley advices to look for “the terms ‘moisturising’, ‘re-moisturising’, ‘deep conditioning’ and ‘elasticising’ when choosing shampoos and conditioning products.” Alternatively find products marketed for ‘dry hair’.

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If you want to tackle lack of moisture by specifically combatting frizz and increasing shine then choose a shampoo and conditioner that have natural oils in them like coconut oil or neem oil. Products with argan oil are particularly good with helping to make hair more manageable and tameable. When it comes to washing Asian hair, as with other ethnic hair types, there is no one solution fits all. 

On the contrary hair washing depends on your individual hair and how often you know you need to wash it in order to keep it clean and looking good, especially as Asian hair can look heavy on the scalp when dirty. However most hairdressers will advice that hot showers are generally not ideal. Instead, try a warm shower and finish with cool or cold water to help close the hair cuticle after washing and lock in moisture. 

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Aside from your hair washing routine, there are things you can do before and after to reduce moisture loss. Before shampooing, a weekly pre-shampoo moisturising treatment like a hair mask for example, will work wonders and there are many available in the market to both tame and nourish hair. Egg protein masks for example, are particularly good for south Asian hair as egg can add moisture, return shine and luster, and encourage hair growth. 

To help with the risk of moisture loss from styling, Dr Kingsley advises not to “over dry hair with a blow dryer, or brush too hard or too often and try to take out the tangles with a wide-toothed comb, not a brush.” In fact stylists often advice combing hair before and after washing it with a wide-toothed comb to detangle easily and pain-free. Dr Kingsley also suggests that “heavier hair-care products are rarely necessary” and instead “light gels, mouses, protective moisturisers and leave-in conditioners are the best.”

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Even with these lighter products however, remember to apply them on the lengths and ends of your hair and not the roots, so as to prevent the roots from being greasy. And if you’re keen on increasing the shininess in your hair then opt for shine spray or spritz as it is less likely to weigh your hair down and make it look heavy with product. Depending on your hair texture though, it is worth remembering that dark, straight hair reflects light more and can therefore look shinier than curly hair.

Of-course no discussion about caring for south Asian hair would be complete without including hair oil and given the hair’s propensity to frizz, it is no wonder that hair oil originates from the region. Argan oil, as mentioned above, can make hair tamer and easier to manage while almond oil is great for adding moisture. If you want to reduce hair loss then look to castor oil and to coconut oil for any scalp conditions. There’s no shortage of options available so find the one that deals with the problem you want to tackle and make every day a good hair day!

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